Stari Most, Bosnia and Herzegovina’s iconic bridge, contorts its immense stone frame to arch unsupported over the Neretva River. This feat of Ottoman-Balkan engineering straddles the river amongst the clamour of the Ottoman market and the procession of bridge jumpers who come to hurl themselves from the famed structure into the rapids below. Situated near the Bosnian-Croatian border and a comfortable bus ride away from popular destinations such as Dubrovnik and Split, a day trip to Mostar lets you explore one of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most iconic and accessible destinations.

Exploring  Mostar

 

The Balkans are highlighted for their cultural diversity, and this becomes no more apparent than Bosnia and Herzegovina, where Serbs, Croats and Muslim Bosniaks have lived in close proximity for the past 500 years.

While the fabric of its society was ripped apart in the ethnically charged  Bosnian War of the 90’s, the nation still retains a unique blend of Slavic, Croatian and Muslim Bosniac culture and while the scars of conflict are still visible, the country is safe to visit with Mostar serving as the perfect entry point to the country.

Today, Stari Most span not just not only the geographical boundary of the Nevada river but also bridges the ethnic split between the Croatian west bank and Bosniak east bank. While the monolithic Croatian church is worth a quick visit, it’s the east bank where the Bosniac market facades wax from cobblestone grey to hues of pastel pink and purple stand against the backdrop of the immense bridge and the ivory whites of minarets.

The culture of the Muslim Bosniacs, introduced to the region around 500-600 years ago under the rule of the Ottoman empire, brings a distinct clash of western and eastern architecture, food and customs, making the nation the cosmopolitan jewel of the Balkans, even if it’s a diamond in the rough.

The Story of Stari Most

 

In 1557 Suleiman the Magnificent, Sultan of the Ottman Empire (Now modern-day Turkey, but whose territory encompassed modern-day Bosnia and Herzegovina at this time) commisioned the construction of the architectural wonder of the arching bridge to  Mimar Hayruddin, the terms where fashioned in old-world simplicity, failure came at the price of the architect’s life.

Never the optimist Mimar was purported to be found digging his own grave nine years later when the scaffolding was removed and the bridge stood on its own foundation for the first time. The sighs of relief upon those involved in the construction must have been audible when they witnessed the marvel arching unsupported over the river below.

This collective exhalation at the marvel of the bridge’s defence off gravity was held for just over 400 years until November 1993, when the bridge collapsed under the force of 60 shells fired from invading Croatian artillery in the Bosnian war.

The bridge was reconstructed in 2004. If you’re worried that what you’re seeing is just a reconstruction and not the real thing, don’t be! The bridge was reconstructed using original pieces of the old bridge combined with the same stone mined from local quarries. I also think its an important act of defiance to show that after being systematically targetted, Mostar can show that its heritage and culture can and will be preserved.

The Bridge Jumpers

 

Idling in the summer sun, a tanned figure in red speedo’s reclines on the stone parapet of Stari Most, undeterred by the 25-meter drop into the azure depths below him. Suddenly he jumps to his feet, his heels flat on the edge of parapet surveying the crowd exploring Mostar’s bridge.

Eyes dart, heads turn and selfie sticks swivel as all attention is directed on one of Mostar’s famed bridge jumpers. Either the crowd is too small, the conditions aren’t right or the anticipation has yet to reach its crescendo, he calls out something charming and roguish to the women selling Knik-knaks who replies with a belly aching laugh, before sprawling out again like a cat basking in the warmth of the stone parapet.

Bridge diving is a centuries old tradition in Mostar. And outside of the winter months, the bridge jumpers jump daily to crowds that gather to witness the spectacle. The jumpers, local men who have practised diving into the river for years before attempting the perilous feat.

Personally, I feel a little bit uncomfortable standing around paying a couple of Euro’s to hurl themselves off a bridge, but the bridge divers seem to be proud to continue in the footsteps of many of the father’s grandfathers etc. If you want to personally jump from the bridge, you can contact the clubhouse to arrange it, but this is something an amateur can’t pick up in a day.

The Bosnian War

 

The coastline of the crowded Adriatic rises into a mountainous landscape as the bus veers towards Bosnia & Herzegovina, where cragged foothills are marred by fields of haphazard graveyards and blown out ruins. Idle shopfronts stand riven by the scars of a war twenty years gone.

Travelling through the countryside towards Mosar highlights the sheer scale of the Bosnian War. Every village passed along the way showed signs of the conflict that tore the country apart. From 1992-1996 Bosnia saw itself as the centre of conflict in the collapse of Yugoslavia. Its diverse population split along ethnic lines with Mostar’s Croatian and Muslim populations coming into conflict.

It’s important to remember that the conflict in Bosnia was highly localised, with the story of Mostar’s conflict being very different to that of Sarajevo. Even though the war is over, tensions remain between the two communities, although this rarely if ever affects tourists.

Planning Your Day Trip To Mostar

 

Buses from Dubrovnik usually take between 3 – 3.5 hours. In my experience, the bus was spacious and air conditioned. But make sure you’re carrying some coins in either Croatian or Bosnian currency in case you need to use the toilet going to the checkpoint.

Buses from Split usually take around 4 hours.

If you want to explore more of Bosnia & Herzegovina, and I highly recommend you do, it’s easy to get from tr Mostar to Bosnia’s capital of Sarajevo by train (read my experienceof the captial city here). Due to extensive damage of the Bosnian War the train network can be a bit hit and miss, but the Train line from Mostar is newly built (with free wifi), incredibly reliable and offers some stunning mountain scenery. When I was there the train ran twice a day, one in the morning and another in the evening. You can buy tickets from the office at the station.